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Paint Shop Pro Tutorials -- Red Eye Removal | ||||||||||||||||||
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Red Eye Removal with Paint Shop ProEven today's smartest cameras and flash systems can leave you with portraits of friends and family looking like something from a Wes Craven movie... Spooky :) Those bright red eyes glowing out at you from the surrounding darkness... There's a solution, though, that's both elegant and powerful! Paint Shop Pro's Red Eye Removal tool. With just a few minutes practice at setting the different values you'll have your family's portraits looking more normal and less like the cast for the next "Freddie" movie. This Paint Shop Pro Photo XI lesson will demonstrate how you can correct red eye in any of your digital portraits. Even though my portrait subject is a boxer puppy you can achieve the same results with portraits of your human subjects. Of course the human portraits will have subjects with red eyes, not the blue eyes that you see in the puppy's portrait... no matter, though, as you'll see once you get started.
NOTE: This Paint Shop Pro lesson was created using Corel Paint Shop Pro Photo XI.
A Note on GlintBefore moving on to the actual red eye removal technique I'd like to point out that one of the differences between human red eyes and the pup's blue eyes is the positioning of the "Glint" (this is what Paint Shop Pro uses to refer to the bright white specular reflection from the flash). Either the puppies wide set eyes reflect things a little differently, or the pup needs glasses (see below), but there are a couple of glints in her eyes that aren't really centered, or exactly evenly spaced. No worries, though. I'll cover the "Glint" setting such that you'll see exactly how it can be applied to any red eye problem.
A Little Prep WorkAlthough Paint Shop Pro's Red Eye Removal tool is very powerful, and easy to use, it is what I refer to as a "destructive" tool in that it changes the pixels of your original image. You can get around this in a number of ways... ...you can work on a duplicate of the image. This is a good solution, but it means keeping track of more than one version of all of your affected portraits. You can work on a copy of the layer. This is a pretty good solution, too, but it will increase the size of your .pspimage file(s). A good compromise, in my opinion, is to copy the areas that need to be affected (in this case the subject's eyes) to a new layer above the original. Copying only the area that's needed will help keep the file size down. To get started, select the Selection tool from the Toolbar, set the Selection Type to Ellipse and the Mode to Replace. The other settings aren't really relevant for this correction. TIP: For the keyboard shortcut fanatics in the crowd, you can press the 'S' key to select the Selection tool
Click-and-drag an elliptical selection around one of the eyes that are affected. With the first eye selected, hold down the Shift key to add to the current selection (you'll see a small plus sign above the mouse pointer) and drag another selection around your subject's other eye. You should end up with two selections around the eyes as seen in figure 25.1.
Choose Edit, Copy to copy the selected areas. With the eyes selected and copied create a new layer for them by choosing Layers, New Raster Layer... Doing so will bring up the New Raster Layer dialog box. Give the layer a name ("Eyes" or "Red Eye Correction" would be appropriate) and click OK to create the new layer. Choose Edit, Paste Into Selection to paste the selected areas into the newly created layer. TIP: For the keyboard shortcut fanatics in the crowd, you can press the 'Ctrl-Shift-L' keys to paste into the selection
By following the preceding steps in the order they're written you prevent Paint Shop Pro from pasting the eyes into the center of a new layer... not necessarily the place you want them to end up. The method used here will assure that the eyes in the new layer are in exactly the same place as those in the main layer below. Now that the eyes are in their own layer it's time to correct the red eye problem... Paint Shop Pro's Red Eye Removal ToolThe new "Eye" layer should be the active layer. If it's not, perhaps because you've saved and re-opened the file, simply click the "Eye" layer in the Layers palette to activate it. With the layer containing the selected areas active, choose Adjust, Red Eye Removal... Doing so will bring up the Red Eye Removal dialog box (see figure 25.2).
TIP: Use the Pan option in the Red Eye Removal dialog box to help you zero in quickly on the area you want to work on. You can activate the Pan option by clicking the Pan button located just below the "After:" preview window
Use the Zoom slider to adjust the red eye area so that you can see all of it (take another peek at figure 25.2). Choose the Method. For the image of the puppy I chose "Auto Animal Eye". If you're working on a photograph of a human subject you can choose "Auto Human Eye". Click-and-drag, in the Before preview window, from the center of the pupil outwards until you've created a selection that surrounds the pupil (see figure 25.3)
I started with the pup's left eye (the one on the right in the photograph) and it does have a small glint in it that I'd like to preserve, or even (slightly, VERY slightly enhance). To do so I set the "Center Glint" on and I set the size of the glint. In this case only 2 pixels, but it will be enough to preserve the glint. If removing the red eye from a portrait leaves black holes in space where your subject's eyes should be, you can actually add a glint to help give the eyes a more realistic appearance. When you've finished up with one eye move on to the next. With the pup's right eye, I turned off the glint. Note that doing so doesn't remove any existing specular highlights. For both eyes I left the default values for both the Feather and Blur settings. That is I left the Feather set to 1 and the Blur set to 0. If the image you're working with is suffering from a little soft-focus you might want to bump up the Feather or the Blur values a little. To get the best results turn on the Preview on Image. There's a check box to do so located at the top right of the dialog box. I turned that preview on to help me set the lightness values for both the Glint and the Pupil. I set both of those values to 60 based on observing the changes in the preview as I played with the sliders. I left the default Color setting, but you may want to play around with this, keeping an eye on the preview as you make changes to see what effect it has on the photographs you're working with. Figure 25.4 shows my final result. Now that's one cute little boxer puppy :)
As always, make sure that you save a copy of your image as a .pspimage file so that you can come back to it later if necessary and make any subsequent changes or re-edits. That's it for now... Be sure to check out some of our other Paint Shop Pro tutorials including the next one that will demonstrate how to brighten and whiten the smile of your portrait subjects.
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